The Christ of Havana
|Opening Hours: Open 24 hours|
If that date sounds like it could be important, you may remember that Fidel entered Havana just 15 days later – January 8, 1959 – riding a wave of revolutionary triumph.
As you can imagine, this wasn’t the best timing for El Cristo. Shortly after achieving power, Fidel suppressed Catholic institutions in Cuba for what he saw as the ways in which the Church justified the oppression of his female and African comrades. Just three years later, in 1962, as the Christ of Havana continued peacefully looking out over its changing city, Fidel was excommunicated by Pope John XXIII.
It wasn’t until 1992 that Fidel agreed to loosen restrictions on the Church, even allowing practicing Catholics to join the Communist Party. This cracked the door on Cubans reuniting publicly with their Catholic faith and paved the way for a visit from Pope John Paul II in 1998. (Such a huge deal was this visit that posters still grace buildings throughout the city.)
While it may be a third shorter than Christ the Redeemer in Brazil (which stands at 98 feet tall), the Christ of Havana is still worth a visit.
As I stood at its 10-foot wide base, Old Havana marched itself right up to the far shore. The Castillo de la Real Fuerza, Parque Luz Caballero, the puttering Coco Taxis, the cruising 1950’s American cars and more formed a panorama in the foreground, while recognizable landmarks like El Capitolio and even the José Martí Memorial standing over La Plaza de la Revolución (Revolution Square) hovered in the background.
It’s peaceful atop the Christ of Havana’s hill. Some locals sit here and there drinking Tu Cola or maybe a Cristal and chat. A sole vendor peddles in fresh coconut water and light snacks. Seabirds circle. A soft wind blows in off the bay.
In 2013 the statue was completely restored, but even though it may look practically new, from its vantage point across the canal it’s seen Havana, and its predominantly Catholic residents, through so much over more than half-a-century; always with a peaceful grace that’s truly inspiring.
The park is free and any taxi could easily take you through El Tunnel de La Habana for a visit.