Uncommon Caribbean - Celebrating the undiscovered charms of the Caribbean.

Travel Back in Time (or at least to Trinidad) with Roti in Brooklyn

Get Married at Nisbet Plantation & Your Love Will Grow – Literally!

Taste of the Caribbean: Try a Ting… Then Add Some Sting

My Close Encounter with Tobago’s Elusive Naked Boy

St. Lucia

Friday Happy Hour: Chairman’s,
The #1 Rum Among Young St. Lucians

by: Patrick |

Chairman's Reserve St Lucia Rum

Imagine this.

Your alarm goes off at 5:30am. Before long, you’re at the airport. Here you lament what’s become of air travel before hopping a flight. A few hours later, back on terra firma, you descend wobbly metal stairs from your plane into a warm and amazingly bright St. Lucia afternoon. The heat coming off the tarmac makes everything a little wiggly as you make your way to the terminal. It just smells like the Caribbean.

Once inside, you breeze through customs, then get a warm “good afternoon” and smile from your rental car agent. She leads you out to the parking lot, shows you the Jeep Wrangler that will act as your trusty transport for the next few days, and you’re off. A short, winding drive later and you’re at the quaint little Stonefield Estate Villa Resort nestled deep in the rainforest just below the picturesque Pitons. They show you to your secluded villa and take you through the amenities which include an outdoor shower, mango tree heavy with fruit, gorgeous view of the Caribbean Sea beyond thick rainforest, and a plunge pool large enough to swim laps in.

Once they leave, you’re alone in paradise with only the sound of leaves lazily rustling and small exotic birds sweetly singing.

What do you do?

If you’re anything like us (and I feel like I can speak for Stephen in this) you head straight out to the nearest bar for a glass of rum!

On our last trip to St. Lucia, the nearest bar was conveniently located right on property. The Mango Tree Restaurant was just a short walk from our villa’s door. Once we’d installed ourselves at the well shaded, small wooden bar and said our good afternoons, we got to perusing the liquor selection looking for something new to try. Sitting quietly between a bright white bottle of Malibu Rum and an ostentatious bottle of E&J Brandy was a squat, unassuming bottle we weren’t familiar with.

Mango Tree Restaurant at Stonfield Resort St Lucia

Not taking my eyes off the bottle, I asked the bartender what his favorite local rum was. He quickly replied with an infectious smile – “It’s got to be Chairman’s, man.” – and grabbed the bottle I had been eyeing. “It’s what all the young people drink.” I refocused on him asking for clarification. “It’s still pretty new. All the older people drink Bounty, but if you go to a party now with young people, it’s got to be Chairman’s.”

“Hey, I’m a young guy! Let’s give it a try.”

Oh yes. This is good stuff. I’ll let the Ministry of rum tell it:

born as a blend of aged John Dore and Kentucky Vendome pot still rums and column still rum finished in used barrels to allow the rich, dark, dried fruit, pecan and brown spice flavors in the body to marry. The second casking in newer, used barrels gives the final blend a slightly dry, smoky finish.

It’s no wonder Chairman’s Reserve has won so many awards, including a gold medal in the 2008 International Wine & Spirit Competition and a Double Gold Medal (Double!) at the 2008 San Francisco World’s Spirit Competition.

Lost in my glass of Chairman’s I almost didn’t hear the bartender when he asked if I knew how it had gotten its name. I hadn’t. “Well, when they were crafting the blend and tasting a bunch of options, they thought they had the right mix so they set out a bunch of glasses of the rum for everyone to taste. Everyone took their glass and tried it, but the chairman wasn’t there. So one glass was left. They said this glass of rum was reserved for the chairman… And that’s how it got its name!”

I eyed him suspiciously for a moment before realizing it didn’t matter how Chairman’s got its name. All that mattered was that there was more to refill my glass.

Cheers!

Jul. 30th, 2010 | Tags: bar, drinks, rum | 3 Comments »

St. Kitts

On-Site St. Kitts: Reggae Beach Bar,
a Watering Hole Fit for Man & Beasts

by: Steve |

Reggae Beach Bar, St. Kitts/SBPR

So, a guy walks into a bar and sees a goat, a pig and a monkey sitting there… Sounds like the start of a good joke, but this is exactly what you’ll see if you’re ever lucky enough to find yourself at the Reggae Beach Bar in St. Kitts.

My love of beach bars and shacks (Sunshine’s, Le Petibonum, etc.) has been well-documented on Uncommon Caribbean, so I’m sure that none of you faithful readers will be surprised that I forced our cab driver to stop here on our way to the airport during the waning hours of my recent trip to Nevis. The bar sits directly on the beach in Cockleshell Bay, just a few steps from the jetty where the boat that taxied us from St. Kitts to Nevis and back again was docked. Upon first seeing the place on our way to St. Kitts’ smaller sister island, I knew that I would have to find a way to return, if only just for a quick drink. I’m sure glad that I did as this is one of the friendliest and most uncommon beach bars I’ve ever seen.

The Reggae Beach vibe is very laid back and cool, with roots rhythms mixing nicely with seriously strong rum punches and a nice stretch of beach to keep everyone in an irie mood. The food is excellent as well. Reggae Beach has a reputation for offering the best BBQ ribs on the island, though it’s the fresh lobster I saw being served that has my stomach aching for a return visit.

The Beach at Reggae Beach Bar/SBPR

All those things are great, but what makes Reggae Beach particularly uncommon is the cast of animal characters always on-hand at the bar.

Wilbur the pig is a behemoth, weighing in at 700 pounds. Like most pigs, he just lays around in the shade getting fat. In fact, he’s so fat that a bartender told me he can’t open his eyes because his eyelids are too heavy. Still, this is a better life than what was originally planned for him. Sonia, the manager at Reggae Beach, told me that the pig once belonged to a former employee named Daniel who intended to slaughter the poor guy. The bar’s owner had developed an affection for the pig, though, so he bought him and has let him live out his lazy days in the shadow of the bar.

Photo credit: Kelly Bennett

The monkey and the goat are an even better story. Both were brought to the bar when they were very young after being injured and abandoned. Reggae Beach bar staff cared for the animals, raising them together in the same large cage. They’ve been best friends virtually their whole lives, happily growing up together completely oblivious of their differences - a fitting metaphor for a truly friendly place.

For more information on the Reggae Beach Bar, visit their Website by clicking here.

Jul. 29th, 2010 | Tags: bar, beach | 3 Comments »

St. Croix

Deal of the Week: Hotel Caravelle’s
Off-Road Package

by: Steve |

Photo credit: Jane Watkins

If you’re a fan of Uncommon Caribbean on Facebook, then you already know why St. Croix’s Hotel Caravelle – the pretty pink building in the photo – is so special to us. But even if you don’t win our St. Croix Giveaway, you can always take advantage of the hotel’s great packages and deals, and jet off to St. Croix for an uncommon adventure of your own.

Take, for instance, the hotel’s new “Off-Road Package.” This is the ultimate intro to the off-the-beaten-path St. Croix, exposing visitors to a side of the island that even a lot of Crucians never see.

Leading the way are the good folks at Tan Tan Tours, a local tour operator offering four-wheeling expeditions via a caravan of open-air jeeps throughout the island.

Now, I’ve never been on a Tan Tan tour myself, but from everything I’ve heard and read, it sounds like these guys basically replicate some of the fun I used to have with Patrick, our other brother, Peter, and our friends tramping through the bush limin’ and exploring as kids growing up on the island. I doubt the Tan Tan guides will teach you how to tie a noose out of a piece of bush so that you can catch lizards and make ‘em fight like we used to (we were young boys; don’t judge), but you’ll get a true taste of St. Croix’s hidden treasures nonetheless.

Tan Tan’s adventures run the gamut from extreme off-roading – sliding down hills and driving through thick bush to access the best views and beaches – to more tranquil, scenic drives focusing on the island’s culture and history. The choice is up to the guests, though I’m guessing that most of you Uncommon Caribbean readers would rather experience the secluded tide pools at Annaly Bay rather than take a leisurely Sunday drive down in West (Frederiksted), right?

The Off-Road Package at Hotel Caravelle includes an all day Tan Tan Tours expedition with lunch, hotel accommodations for four days and three nights, and daily breakfast. The price: just $998 per couple – that’s just a shade under $125 per-person, per-day for an unforgettably unique vacation.

For reservations and more information, visit the Hotel Caravelle Website by clicking here, or call 800-524-0410.

* The information in this story was accurate at the time of publishing. All rates and specials are subject to change at the travel provider’s discretion.

Jul. 28th, 2010 | Tags: deal, hotel | 4 Comments »

Puerto Rico

Uncommon Attraction: Puerto Rico’s Amazing Rio Camuy Caves

by: Steve |

Jose Oquendo via Flickr

The Caribbean is famous for its undersea treasures, something we’ve touched on here and here, but what’s less known is that the region is also home to some pretty amazing underground attractions. My favorite, and arguably the most impressive, is the Rio Camuy Cave Park in Puerto Rico.

Okay, really there is no argument: Rio Camuy is by far the most impressive underground attraction in the Caribbean. After all, there are only two other cave systems on the entire planet that approach the Rio Camuy Caves in size, and neither of them can boast a tropical underground river.

Located near the town of Arecibo on Puerto Rico’s north coast, the Rio Camuy Caves are part of an immense network of natural limestone caves and underground waterways carved out by the Camuy River, the third-largest underground river in the world. More than 10 miles of caverns, 220 caves and 17 entrances to the cave system have been mapped in the 52 years since the caves were officially “discovered,” though this is only a fraction of the entire system. Many experts believe there are still another 800 as yet undiscovered Camuy Caves!

The park extends over 268 acres, though only a small portion of it – three sinkholes and two caves – are open to the public. Trust me, though, these limited areas do not disappoint.

Most visitors opt for the guided trolley tour, which takes you down through some dense vegetation right into a massive sinkhole. You then walk across a series of ramps and bridges within the 170-foot high Cueva Clara before boarding another tram that takes you to the Tres Pueblos Sinkhole. At 650 feet in diameter and 400 feet deep, Tres Pueblos will take your breath away.

Another must-see is the Cathedral Cave. Here you’ll find a collection of ancient petroglyphs carved on the walls by the Taino Indians that lived on the island centuries ago.

The last time I visited Rio Camuy, I braved the Spiral Sinkhole and Cave. Okay, “braved” isn’t the most appropriate term as it’s not really dangerous. As I’ve pointed out before, though, I’m not in particularly great shape, so the 205 spiral steps you have to descend down into the sinkhole were no picnic for me. Those 205 steps are also the only way out, so be ready for a workout.

As for the cave that awaits you below, it’s simply awe-inspiring. The mammoth size of the opening at the mouth of the cave combined with the intricate stalactite and stalagmite formations, all lit dramatically to enhance the eerie underground beauty of the surroundings, are definitely worth the price of admission (and those stairs).

Facilities at park include a cafeteria, picnic area, gift shop, exhibition hall, and theater. There are also a few hiking trails for those more interested in the area’s above-ground wonders.

The park is normally open Wednesday through Sunday from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Get there early, though, as the last tour departs at 3:30 p.m., or when the park reaches its daily capacity.

If you’re an experienced spelunker, you’ll want to call in advance to arrange for special tours and rappelling trips through undeveloped sections of the caves off-limits to general visitors.

For more information, call the Rio Camuy Cave Park at tel: 787-898-3100.

Jul. 27th, 2010 | Tags: adventure, spelunking | 9 Comments »

Grenada

Taste of the Caribbean: Oil Down, Grenada’s National Dish

by: Steve |

Kambiz Kamrani via flickr

If you’re ever in Grenada and lucky enough to receive an invitation to an Oil Down, don’t fetch your robe, spa slippers or Musical Massage CD’s. A rub down is not in your future. Instead, get ready for a unique cultural experience that is as fun as it is filling.

The term Oil Down doubles as the national dish of Grenada and the communal party that’s held to make it.

The dish itself is serious comfort food, generally combining breadfruit, coconut milk, saffron, dumplings, callaloo and a salted fish or meat like codfish, smoked herring, salted beef, or pig’s tail. Everything’s cooked together in one big pot over an open flame outdoors, as pictured above, with the key ingredient – the flavorful oil that’s released from the coconut milk as it simmers – inspiring the name.

The party is an all-day affair drawing together whole neighborhoods, often to the beach, to prepare the meal. Everyone pitches in to help – peeling, cutting and seasoning meat and provisions, tending to the fire, mixing drinks – all have a role to play. Once all the ingredients are in the pot, though, the party really begins. Oil Down usually cooks for a few hours, leaving ample time to take some rum, catch-up on old talk, and just kick back.

Obviously, there’s a tremendous spirit of unity and camaraderie that comes with every Oil Down. Hand-to-hand, brothers and sisters from shared communities coming together to cook and eat as one from the same pot – Oil Down is a beautiful expression of the best of Caribbean culture.

There’s nothing quite like experiencing an Oil Down in Grenada, but you can try to replicate it at home. Here’s a scaled-down recipe from our friends at the Grenada Tourist Board that could feed your family tonight!

Ingredients:

1 large full breadfruit
1 whole hot green pepper
2 blades chive
1 sprig thyme, parsley, celery
1/2 to 1 ounce saffron, or
2 tablespoons curry powder
8 ounces salted meat (pig’s tail or pig’s snout)
5 to 6 cups coconut milk
salt to taste

Directions:
Soak salt meat to remove some of the salt. Cut breadfruit in half. Divide each half into two or three sections. Peel and core, then wash thoroughly. Place meat in a pot. Arrange breadfruit over meat. Add seasoning and coconut milk. Cover and bring to a boil. Add saffron or curry powder and cook until meat and breadfruit are tender, the liquid is absorbed, and oil is seen around the breadfruit.

Oil Down can be served plain, with a salad, or with ochro slush. Dumplings, plantains, callaloo leaves, or various other vegetables may be added as well, since like the party that bears its name, just about everything mixes well in an Oil Down.

Enjoy!

Jul. 26th, 2010 | Tags: food, heritage, party | 1 Comment »

Culebra

Wish You Were Here

by: Steve |

Jeremiah Thompson via Flickr

Strolling in the sand and surf along Zoni Beach in Culebra, Puerto Rico.

Jul. 25th, 2010 | Tags: beach, sand, water | 2 Comments »

Jamaica

Saturday Video: Dog Sledding in Jamaica? Believe it!

by: Steve |

Jamaica surely leads the Caribbean in “uncommon” sporting pursuits (and common ones for that matter; see Usain Bolt, world’s fastest man). Everyone knows about the country’s bobsled team, whose improbable run to the 1988 Winter Olympics was immortalized in the John Candy “classic”, Cool Runnings, but did you know that Jamaica is also the first Caribbean nation to field an entrant in the Iditarod?

You know the Iditarod, the 1,100-mile test of strength, endurance and sanity through the frigid and desolate wilds of the Alaskan Arctic… It’s about the last place you’d think to find someone from the Caribbean (you’ll NEVER find me there), but Jamaican Newton Marshall completed the race earlier this year.

Newton finished a respectable 47th out of 55 mushers, becoming the first non-white person to finish the race. The only other black musher in Iditarod history was Barry MacAlpine, who competed in the inaugural race back in 1973, but did not finish.

As was the case with their bobsledding bredren, the backstory of how the Jamaica Dogsled Team came into being is certainly fit for the Hollywood treatment. The owner of Chukka Caribbean Adventures, one of the region’s best tour companies for active and adventurous travelers, just happened to be in Canada a few years ago shopping for dune buggies. Instead, he found a dryland cart for dogsled training. Returning to Jamaica with the cart and a team of experienced dogsled trainers, the folks at Chukka set about working with the Jamaican Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) to train dogs rescued from the island’s streets.

That’s right, previously abandoned and unloved dogs that would otherwise be euthanized are helping to bring surprising sports glory to Jamaica! As a dog-lover who has owned several former strays and pound pups over the years, I LOVE everything about the Jamaica Dogsled Team.

If you do too, I highly recommend you check out Chukka’s Jamaica Dogsled Experience in Ocho Rios. The short video above provides a taste of the fun that’s in store when you opt for this truly unique Caribbean adventure. You can also keep up with the latest on the team by joining their Facebook fan page here.

Getting back to Newton’s unlikely Iditarod run, if you’re wondering whether a “Cool Mushings” film might be in our future, the answer is yes! This one won’t have the camp (or the Candy, of course) of Cool Runnings, though. Click here for details.

Jul. 24th, 2010 | Tags: sports, video | 2 Comments »