St. Martin/St. Maarten is a brilliant blend of unique qualities not found anywhere else in the Caribbean.
Here, French and Dutch blends with Afro-Caribbean. Large Resorts share the island with cozy escapes. And the blue sky gradates perfectly into turquoise waters and white sand beaches.
It’s a place where driving 10 minutes can take you from one country to the next or what feels like a world away.
- Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten and COVID-19
- Two-of-a-kind St. Martin/St. Maarten
- Topless and Nude Sunbathing
- St. Martin/St. Maarten Beaches
- Where to Eat
- The Bottom Line on Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten
- St. Martin/St. Maarten Map
Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten and COVID-19
Like most Caribbean destinations during the novel coronavirus pandemic, St. Martin/St. Maarten closed its borders. The closure began with non-residents on March 18th and was extended to include a total lockdown on March 22nd.
On March 24th, confinement orders dictated that people could only leave their homes for essential travel, markets were closed, gatherings were forbidden, and non-essential businesses closed.
Even the border between Saint-Martin and St. Maarten was closed on March 29th with minor crossings physically blocked a few days later.
It’s worth sharing that the recorded cases as of May 17, 2020, were 77. For context, it appears they performed 418 tests since the beginning of the pandemic.
St. Martin/St. Maarten has adopted a phased reopening plan (called deconfinement in Saint-Martin) that began May 11th and is planned to complete June 15th.
For more on the developing response in St. Martin St. Maarten and across the West Indies, visit our Caribbean Coronavirus COVID-19 Information page.
Two-of-a-kind St. Martin/St. Maarten
Of course, when talking about this destination’s unique qualities we have to start with its dual-nation status. Yes, St. Martin/St. Maarten holds the honor of being the smallest inhabited island divided between two nations.
The north of the island, Saint-Martin is a collectivity (collectivité d’outre-mer or COM) of France. And it really feels like it.
In the Collectivity of Saint-Martin, expect most people to speak French (and some English), menus will likely be in French, most people will prefer you pay in Euros, and the cuisine leans heavily in the French West Indies creole style.
Another sight you can expect to see on the French side are topless women and on some beaches nude sunbathers. For more on that, jump to our section on topless and nude sunbathing.
Dutch Sint Maarten
The Dutch side of the island is in some ways even more geopolitically unique. Sint Maarten is one of just four countries that together form the Kingdom of the Netherlands.
For the geography buffs out there, the Kingdom includes Sint Maarten and the Netherlands itself, of course, plus two other Caribbean destinations: Aruba and Curaçao!
There are two big differences between Sint Maarten on the south side of the island and its neighbor of Saint-Martin to the north.
One of those differences is the use of the Netherlands Antillean Guilder (or Florin) as its primary currency. Usually, hovering around half the value of the USD, the currency change can sometimes cause some confusion when you see your bill looking twice as much as you expected!
The other big difference is casinos. There are roughly a dozen free-standing casinos though guests at larger properties are offered on-property gaming.
To be honest, I’m no gambler. So, I have no interest in Sint Maarten’s casinos, I’ve never been to any, and have no recommendation for folks who are into it. If that’s your thing, I can only wish you the best of luck!
Topless and Nude Sunbathing
Before getting to the list of our favorite beaches on St. Martin, let’s first touch on what can be a touchy subject. That subject, of course, is how much should you take off when you visit St. Martin/St. Maarten’s beaches.
The French plus beaches have equaled toplessness since around when Brigitte Bardot renounced tops on the French Riviera in the 1960s. Back then, topless sunbathing and women’s liberation went hand in hand.
It wasn’t about overt sexualization, it was about women claiming their bodies as their own and exercising their freedoms. It was about equality.
Today, unfortunately, things have taken a bit more of a prudish turn.
Can you expect to share the sand with topless women on the beaches of St. Martin? Yes. Can you expect that to be the choice of the majority? Not so much.
Thanks to toplessness feeling overly sexualized (something often blamed on Americans), American visitors bringing more reserved standards with them, and the rise of social media where unwanted images plastered on Facebook can cause a person problematic job interviews—the women who choose to go topless are now in the minority.
All that said…
Should you go topless on St. Martin?
Sure. No one will bat an eye and flash a frown should you feel comfortable going topless on the beaches of St. Martin.
The most important thing to know about nudity on St. Martin is that the far end of Orient Beach is the one and only officially clothing-optional beach. Read our review of a day in the nude on Orient Beach.
Does this mean you can’t lay under the sun au-naturel on any other beach? Not really.
There are a number of other beaches that have become known as being nude friendly, but you just need to always know that they are not officially designated as clothing-optional.
Some of your best bets for enjoying a nude beach experience away from Orient Beach would be Happy Bay, the far side of Pinel Island, and Petites Cayes.
All that said…
Should you go nude on St. Martin?
On the designated area of Orient Beach? Yes! And if you’re discreet, respectful, safe, and comfortably secluded—you should be OK on other select sands. Try for weekdays on out of the way beaches.
St. Martin/St. Maarten Beaches
It is no exaggeration to designate the island of St. Maarten/St. Martin as home to some of the most perfect beaches in the Caribbean. The island’s crystal clear water, blending into blazing white sand, and European/Caribbean beach culture makes the island one of my favorite beach travel spots.
As we touched on above, Orient Bay is home to the only officially clothing-optional beach on St. Martin/St. Maarten, but it has much more than just that!
Orient Bay is a little over a mile of beach fun. You can find rentals for all sorts of watersports including windsurfing, Hobie cat sailing, and even jet skis. There are water trampolines, snorkel rentals, and more.
On the sand, you can rent beach chairs for varying prices depending on who you rent from. Behind the beach chairs are restaurants, bars, and shops.
All this commerce is a testament to how busy Orient Bay can get. If there’s a cruise ship (or two) in port, you can expect it to get very busy.
Still, going at the right time (early on weekdays) and renting chairs at the right place is key to having a great time on this world-famous beach.
Happy Bay is what it says it is. So if its semi-secluded sands and chill vibes can’t make you happy, there’s a problem… With you!
There are two primary ways to get to Happy Bay. One is a short hike from Friars Bay just to the south. The other way is strolling from a parking lot through long swaying grasses and an abandoned development.
The reward is a small, quiet bay. The first time I visited years ago, I was the only one there for the whole day. More recently, it was much more populated, but not nearly enough to make it feel particularly populated.
And thanks to its quiet nature, Happy Bay is considered one of the favorites for nude sunbathers looking for a serene clothing-optional beach experience.
Friars Bay is a great beach for those looking for some chill facilities on the beach thanks to Kali’s Beach Bar and Grill.
You can expect a lot of the typical beach bar fare here, but for something a little more special, try one of Kali’s rum infusions.
Passion fruit, pineapple, and other tropical tastes are mixed with rum before baking in the sun for days or weeks. The result is a sweet (by not cloying) treat!
Found off the coast of French Saint-Martin in the northeast part of the island, Pinel Island is home to a nature preserve, several magnificent beaches, plus Karibuni Restaurant.
So, you can easily alternate between snorkeling the serene waters, soaking up the sun on white sand, and sampling their signature lobster lunch.
The Ferry Shuttle leaves every hour from the Cul de Sac pier.
Baie Rouge is a favorite around here. I love it for the perfectly arcing blaze of white sand, little shady nooks, and lack of much else.
It’s easily accessible and sometimes you’ll find a small makeshift bar, but plan to bring your own provisions when visiting.
Cupecoy beach is special for a number of reasons. First, is Dany. He’s been manning the beach for over a decade dishing out beach chairs, beers, a little rum, and vibes.
Seriously, if you go to Cupecoy and don’t chat with Dany for a second you’re missing out!
Besides that, depending on the time of year, there are accessible caves carved into the bright yellow limestone cliffs backing the white sand.
Now, what you choose to do in those caves is up to you… But if you can’t imagine how to make the most of secluded, gorgeous, picturesque caves on a quiet beach—again, you may want to talk to Dany as we did.
Besides, Dany and the caves, Cupecoy offers another splendid example of why Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten has some of the best beaches in the Caribbean.
We can’t do a guide without talking about Maho Beach. You know Maho beach. It’s the one world-famous for its incredibly close proximity to Princess Juliana International Airport. You’ve seen the photos and videos of people being blown away by the powerful jet blast of planes about to take off. You’ve probably also seen the photos and videos of people standing on the sand looking like their about to be crushed by massive jumbo jets about the land.
The question is, should you visit?
I mean, if you’re just doing it for the ‘gram, I guess. But to be honest, it’s not really our scene. It’s overcrowded. Noisy. And smells like jet fuel.
If you have a passion for airplanes or airports, knock yourself out. As for us, we’ll be quietly sipping some agricole rhum on one of the island’s many other much quieter, more picturesque beaches.
Where to eat
Being that St. Martin/St. Maarten is such a blend of cultures from the French, Dutch, and Afro Caribbean; it should be no surprise that the flavors of the island are equally diverse and delightful.
One must-stop on any trip to the island has to be the lolos. Found at the northern end of the venerable Grand Case restaurant row, these are open barbecues serving up local fare at decent prices.
Expect to get a plate of rice, salad, veggie, macaroni pie, maybe some spaghetti and a protein. The choices range from shrimp to ribs to lobster and plenty in between.
Read the complete review of our favorite pick from the bunch: Sky’s the Limit.
On the complete other side of the island, another excellent spot for Afro Caribbean fare is the Roti Hut. Wedged into an unassuming corner on the edge of Phillipsburg, this little spot was the best roti I found on the island.
Of course, no one would ever say Sint Martin is known for its this particularly Trinidadian dish, but that just made finding a good one that much more surprising!
Back up on Restaurant Row in Grand Case, Ocean 82 is an excellent spot to get a taste of high-end French cuisine blending with Caribbean flavors.
Overlooking the beach and blessed with sunsets almost as delicious as the food, Ocean 82 has spectacular lobster dishes. Also, don’t pass up on some of their pasta. They’re stellar.
Loterie Farm is a lot of things. It’s a hotel, a nature preserve, and at times party central. The one thing I’m not sure it is is a farm.
Still, the food and atmosphere at the restaurant is quite pleasant. So pleasant that with a few ti’ punches to accompany your lunch, you may find yourself here in time for dinner.
This cannot be over stated: St. Martin has excellent supermarkets. And I’m not talking about typical Caribbean supermarkets, either. I’m talking about plucked straight out of France and dropped in the West Indies level of supermarket.
My favorite is the Super U up north in Hope Estate. It’s massive. It has a rum (and rhum) selection that would put some of the best rum bars to shame. And it also has plenty of locally sourced fish and fruits to choose from.
The Bottom Line on Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten
Like other nearby leeward islands, Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten delivers jaw-dropping beaches galore. But there’s so much more to this destination than just beaches. Also be sure to soak in the eclectic cuisine, hikes, parties, and colorful characters that make “The Friendly Island” unlike any other destination in the Caribbean.